Roxanne Lowitt Fashion Photographer

CULTURE

MEET ROXANNE LOWIT, THE PIONEER OF BACKSTAGE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY

"For me, my photos are my words."

PORTRAIT AND INTERVIEW

by TATIJANA SHOAN

Roxanne Lowit’s career spans decades and her archives tell fashion's story. Having invented backstage fashion photography, Lowit solidified her place in fashion history as the gifted documentarian of a world everyone wants to be in (and very few have the privilege to see). Her work has been published in numerous books and has been exhibited in some of the world’s most prominent galleries and museums such as the Gagosian Gallery, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Whitney Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Expanding her talent for capturing moments, Lowit also parlays her gift into high-concept fashion editorials for magazines around the world. Roxanne is the fashion world’s backstage storyteller —and fashion is her muse.   Below, Lowitt sounds off on her prolific work. Plus, see some of her best photos.

Roxanne Lowit portrait by Tatijana Shoan

AS IF: How did you get into photography?

Roxanne Lowit: I was given an instamatic camera and took pictures of my textiles backstage at the shows when fashion shows were in showrooms. At the time I was at the height of my profession as a textile designer. During those days, the fashion editors brought photographers with them, and the photographers were not fashion photographer—they were just “photographers.” They were big guys in safari jackets holding huge cameras and lenses, and they had two or three cameras hanging on their necks, and the editors would tell them what to shoot while the models walked around the showroom. I would be backstage with my camera taking photos of my prints. One day Annie Flanders, the editor of Soho News, said “You’re going to Paris take pictures at the shows and I’ll use your photos, but you’ll have to get a real camera because the negatives from the instamatic are too small to use”. I bought a real camera (35 mm) and read how to load film into the camera in the plane going to Paris. When I got to Paris—this is where I believe in magic—I ended up on the top of the Eiffel Tower with Yves Saint Laurent and Andy Warhol. Magic… I thought it couldn’t get any better than this. When I came back to New York I quit my job, said, “I’m a photographer now.” I knew I found my métier.

Photography by Roxanne Lowitt, Kate Moss at Galliano

Kate Moss, Galliano, 1994

Roxanne Lowit Kristen McMenamy Versace Show

Shalom Harlow and Kristen McMenamy, Versace, Paris 1997

“To me, beauty is more than a pretty face—it is an energy that shines from within. Some people who have this energy are quite beautiful, and others are not the standard of beauty. But to me, they still are.”

What do you look for when you shoot fashion as opposed to documenting fashion and parties? Which do you prefer?

I enjoy doing both and, for me, it is the same thing. For me, it is always about energy vibrancy, wherever or whatever I shoot; That is what I look for.

What is the Roxanne Lowit aesthetic?

High energy, capturing the soul. Sometimes it’s high glamour, sometimes over the top, sometimes interesting and strange.

Shalom Harlow, Paris, 1995

How has your photography style evolved over the years?

It’s the same as when I started.

What is your definition of a Muse and do you look for one in your work?

My muse is someone who loves to be in front of the camera.

What do you consider the perfect picture?

One that captures the soul, I believe what the ancients believe: That the camera has the power to capture the soul. However, I believe it lives forever in the image.

Photography by Roxanne Lowitt, Martine Boutron flanked by her husband and a friend at Le Privilege in Paris

Martine Boutron Flanked by Her Husband and a friend, Le Privilege, Paris, 1982

What is beauty to you?

I am surrounded by beauty. I see it everywhere. To me, beauty is more than a pretty face—it is an energy that shines from within. Some people who have this energy are quite beautiful, and others are not the standard of beauty. But to me, they still are.

What turns you on?

Capturing unexpected moments full of life.

Nadja Auermann, Galliano, Paris, 1994

If you could describe your photography in one word, what would that word be?

Iconic.

You you were approached by the Met and asked to photograph an image that would encapsulate the essence of beauty and fashion, what would that photograph look like?

See my book Backstage Dior.