Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Collaborates with Vilebrequin

COLLABORATION

JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC IS OVER THE CREATIVE RAINBOW WITH VILEBREQUIN

APRIL 26, 2019

WORDS

by KRISTOPHER FRASER

PHOTOS

COURTESY of VILEBREQUIN

The spark between French couturier Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and swimwear brand VIlebrequin was almost immediate. In 1971 as Castelbajac was debuting his first runway collection, Vilebrequin founder Fred Prsyquel was trying to make the case for swim shorts, and a new wave of sportswear chic had hit. For their new collaboration together, Castelbajac was inspired by the fresh and carefree spirit of the 70s.

“The CEO of Vilebrequin, Roland Herlory, had bought a few drawings of mine from an art gallery, and he had them with him when I met him, because that’s what I do when I’m not doing fashion, I do art,” Castelbajac said. “Now, swimsuits had never really been my territory. I was known for my teddy bear coats and snoopy sweaters. Bathing suits were not my world, but now I felt ready to do it because I’m much more fascinated by the human body.”

The first thing that caught Castelbajac’s eye was the story of seduction at the heart of Vilebrequin. It was the story of un homme et une femme, with the men’s swimwear designed to get the woman’s attention, and the women’s pieces designed to make women the heroine of the story.

“I wasn’t nervous at all to do swimwear, because it was like creating a danger for me,” Castelbajac said. “This process of creativity for bathing suits was ‘How can I invent a petite triangle’. Then I started to create things I found interested, like a one-piece bathing suit that wasn’t a true one-piece. I created a black suit with a rainbow coming out.”

Trompe l’oeil effect was done for bikinis, essentially making them quadrinkis. Athletic and sexy one-pieces were done so women could zip or unzip them as they please. The collection also includes technical terry intarsia tops and shorts, beautifully constructed sundresses, flop-flops- platforms, and floppy hats. It’s rainbows galore all around.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac x Vilebrequin

Castelbajac says he felt more ready to do this now than in his past because, “In the past I was more into manifesto. I wanted to do a revolution in the past. When I did my pieces in the past it was to break the rules. What we did with Vilebrequin was very powerful because when you go on the beach you are either exhibiting or provocating or you’re very fragile. What we wanted to do is a sport chic mixing feminine swimwear. I want women to go on any beach in the world and feel sexy and powerful.”

The designer was inspired by Farrah Fawcett of Charlie’s Angels fame, whom he dressed in the eighties. She saw her as the kind of woman who could feel powerful in these situations, and he found the pieces he did very linked to American beauty. The designer, whose life has been devoted to fashion and art his whole life, is now focused on trying to do things for the younger generation. While he has no specific muse today, he says he has millions of It girls.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac x Vilebrequin

“I see so many kids on Instagrams, so many kids in the street, and editors who have interviewed me, it’s such a creative generation.”

–Jean-Charles de Castelbajac–

“I see so many kids on Instagrams, so many kids in the street, and editors who have interviewed me, it’s such a creative generation,” Castelbajac said. “Through all the digital mediums today, everyone can afford to understand what is style.”

Men also get in on the action, with a range of printed swim shorts, Hawaiian shirts and accessories that shamelessly flirt with their female counterparts. One man in particular was the inspiration for the collection’s signature label design: Jean-Charles himself. The artist and designer is known for noticing details no one else would, and would cut the label on his Vilebrequin shorts to leave nothing but “Requin” — French for shark.

Sustainability has also become a big part of Castelbajac’s work. “The challenge is also trying to make sustainable sexy,” he said. “The work of the designer today is how to make sustainable glamorous, and that’s my mission. I’m a doctor.”

The Jean-Charles de Castelbajac for Vilebrequin collection includes over forty+ pieces for women and men, with price points ranging from 45 euros to 350 euros. The collection is available at Vilebrequin.com and in selected Vilebrequin stores.